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SBS FASHION

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Build the calendar backward from the in-store date.

Working back from the floor date shows when each decision has to be made, including the ones sitting in your own office.

By SBS Fashion3 min read

Silhouette of a person pinning black and white photographs to a board

In brief

An apparel production calendar, often called a time and action calendar, should be built backward from the date goods must be in store, through shipping, inspection, sewing, cutting, materials and approvals. SBS Fashion coordinates final shipment from New York. Its website does not list lead times, so ask its New York team about your specific program.

Start from the date you can’t move

A production calendar starts at the end. Take the date the goods have to be in the distribution center, then walk back through receiving, inland freight, customs clearance, the ocean or air leg, the wait for a vessel, final inspection, packing, sewing and cutting. Now you know when fabric has to be in the factory. Now you know when you have to approve it.

Plan forward from the day the design is ready and you get a delivery date that is really a hope. Planning backward tells you the date each decision stops being free.

The industry calls this a time and action calendar, or T&A. The document is a list of milestones with owners and dates. The discipline lies in putting a name against each line and reviewing it every week, including the lines that belong to your own company.

The lines that slip are often yours

Ask a factory why orders run late and, once you have earned some candor, you will hear about comments that arrived after the deadline, colors approved two rounds behind plan and purchase orders that moved after capacity was booked.

One missed approval can cost far more than its own delay. A lab dip comes back a week late. The mill loses its slot in the dye house. The fabric arrives after the cutting date, and by then the line you booked has gone to another customer’s order.

Fabric sets the pace

Garment sketches pinned to a white wall above blue fabric swatches

On most programs fabric is the longest stretch of the calendar. A stock fabric can be in the factory soon after you commit to it. A developed fabric needs yarn, knitting or weaving, dyeing, finishing and testing, and any of those can push it back.

Trims belong on the same chart. A custom zip puller, a woven label or a printed polybag can hold up a finished garment as effectively as late fabric. Give each its own line and owner.

Book capacity early

Factories plan their lines months ahead, and the good ones fill first. Give an honest forecast early, even a rough one. It lets the factory hold space and, where the volume justifies it, reserve materials. An order that doubles or halves by surprise costs you when next season’s capacity is handed out.

Put the holidays on the chart

In 2027, Tết and Lunar New Year fall on February 6. Factories in Vietnam and China can close for weeks around that date, and it can take longer still for every operator to return. In Türkiye, Ramazan Bayramı falls around March 9 and Kurban Bayramı around May 16, and both move about eleven days earlier each year. Last year’s plan won’t tell you when they land.

Your own side counts too. Approvals stall in the last two weeks of December and through much of August, and factories can’t sew what nobody has signed.

Decide in advance what you will pay to recover

Air freight is the usual rescue, often several times the cost of ocean for the same goods, and it comes straight out of margin. Decide before the season starts at what point you would pay for it, on which styles, and who signs.

Leave room for what nobody controls. In 2021, container rates multiplied and port queues hit records. From late 2023, attacks in the Red Sea sent many Asia services around the Cape of Good Hope and added a week or two to the voyage. Neither appeared on anyone’s T&A in advance.

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Tell us the product, the quantities and the timeline. Our New York team will point you to the right next step.